Monday 11 March 2013

5 Minutes with… Erica Sharpe: Make Jewellery Magazine Interview April 2013

Make Jewellery Magazine talks to jeweller, Erica Sharpe, about her delicate creations and the design process in their April 2013 issue.


Young Artist

Since I was a small child I have always been making things, drawing and painting, so a career in the arts was always on the cards. During my art foundation course I was introduced to jewellery making. I felt an instant connection with working in metal and the fusion of art, design and technical craft; sculpture in miniature.

Fair Play

I think ethical jewellery production is extremely important. I was one of the first jewellers worldwide to receive a licence to sell pieces from Fairtrade and Fairmined gold.  As a jeweller I have a responsibility to ensure my items, which are often bestowed with great meaning and sentiment, are created in a fair way which has not caused suffering. Jewellery should make the wearer, giver and maker feel special
Stella triple flower ring


Work Ethic

After art college, I got an apprenticeship making traditional Indian jewellery and I am very grateful for the culture and work ethic I was introduced to. Following that, I worked making fine jewellery and have been very fortunate to have worked for some brilliant master jewellers. I studied granulation and micro-wire work with the Italian jeweller Giovanni Corvaja and also qualified as a gemmologist with Gem A.  My designing has been helped by drawing tuition with illustrator Cliff Wright, and painting with watercolour artist Jake Winkle. I was given the confidence to launch my own jewellery workshop by Michael Page, a master jeweller who I had been trained by.

Swan sketches
Platinum and diamond swan ring

Family Support

My father is a zoologist, and mother a botanist – so as a child I was immersed in the natural (and scientific) world. However, my father came from an engineering background and was keen to pass on technical skills. My mother came from a family of craft workers, mainly cabinet makers. She created beautiful botanical illustrations and taught me patience and to observe things in detail. More than anything else, my parents supplied materials and allowed me to make a mess!  My mother kept the first piece of jewellery that I made when I was about 5 years old – a raisin threaded onto a piece of string! She must have had a feeling of things to come.

Combining Skills

I love the blend of art, design and technical skill with beautiful and rare raw materials that comes from making jewellery, and the creation of something so personal with meaning and a story. I combine my jewellery with sculpture, sketches and painting. I’ve always found so many aspects within the jewellery world to study and explore and enjoy passing this on to the next generation – I really can’t imagine doing anything else!
Watercolour

Coastal Inspiration

The natural world has always been close to my heart. My Kerensa collection features textured gold and silver inlaid with Cornish tin. The designs are inspired by the dramatic and beautiful coast which is the source of the the tin. I also walk daily in the Somerset countryside and enjoy seeing the changing landscape and wildlife. A small observation, for example the flight of a swallow, is enough to get me thinking up designs for jewellery.
22ct gold Ocean pendant 




Follow Erica on Twitter: https://twitter.com/EricaSharpe
Visit Erica's Website: http://www.ericasharpe.co.uk

Friday 8 March 2013

Making a Bespoke Engagement Ring

This commission was for a surprise engagement ring.

feature
The chosen design

Two brilliant-cut diamonds had been chosen by my customer to use for the ring; one of just under a carat in weight and the other one smaller but of the same exceptionally high quality.
My customer provided me with some images of styles that his partner liked (clothes, favorite jewellery colours etc) and from this I created several mood-boards with design elements and ideas that might suit the double stone ring. The ring is to be part of three in total – a wedding and eternity ring to be added later. With this in mind, simplicity in form was an important consideration so as to allow the other rings to interlock.


One of the mood boards I created to discuss the initial styles for the ring


Platinum was chosen to make the ring and the unusual split-claws added the element of the number eight to the design, which is of special significance to the couple’s relationship.
A natural, organic and flowing form was preferred, yet the design needed to be classical and timeless. I finalised the design and painted it to scale before getting approval and going ahead with making.

The final design

The platinum shank ready to be formed into a ring and forged 


I made the tapered knife-edge shank by forging it to the required shape. The settings were made from platinum wires to create the claws which I then soldered onto support bezels.
 Platinum has a very high melting point so requires special eye protection to shield the glare from the hot metal during soldering and welding. Contamination from many normal workshop tools (iron and steel) and chemicals has to be prevented. It is also very time consuming to polish, as the surface of the metal does not flow in the same way as gold and silver. Despite this, however, it is one of my favorite metals to work with because of the results I can achieve with it. Its strength allows very fine details to be constructed, stone settings are very durable and a good white colour, and its enduring polish gives work a beautiful finish.
The tapered knife-edge shank and claws


The finished ring. After hallmarking I set the diamonds and gave the piece a final polish



"Dear Erica,
....I said YES! Thank you very much for making such a beautiful ring. I'm so pleased with it and cannot wait for the next two to complete my set!" - The Future Mrs Thompson.



Follow Erica on Twitter: https://twitter.com/EricaSharpe